行腳隨筆：淡蘭北路 D1 — 看山看海看遺跡，落腳山谷中的珍珠

穿梭歷史的肌理：瑞芳至九份

對越野跑者而言，山徑不只是地圖上的線條，更是腳掌與土地之間不斷轉換的受力分析。淡蘭北路作為全台史料最豐、發展最早的古道，百年前曾是先民往來與官兵征戰的咽喉要道，如今則化身為一條串起深厚歷史與現代足跡的經典健行路線。

我從瑞芳起跑，穿過苧仔潭古道的靜謐。

隨後的「琉瑯路步道」，語源自 1930 年代日治時期的流籠（空中纜車）。

穿過幽暗神祕的隧道，像是推開了時空大門。

隨著海拔穩定攀升，視野在樹林縫隙中炸開，映入眼簾的基隆嶼在左側海面上閃閃發亮。

九份，這座因金礦而生、因電影而興的山城，是淡蘭北路上最暖心的補給點。在阿柑姨那裡吃上一碗芋圓，讓冰甜滋味稍解爬升後的燥熱。

在人文喧囂與山徑靜謐的斷層間，行走在古道上，除了留心腳下的地面起伏，更建議將視覺打開。在那些看似平凡的轉角，說不定就能與百年前留下的遺跡不期而遇。

🪵 原始山徑的對話：樹梅坪與燦光寮

離開九份老街，體感節奏再度切換。我登上視野炸裂的樹梅坪，東北角海岸線在背後完全展開。

不久後進入燦光寮古道，路面質地轉為原始土路。這裡在清代曾是設置官方郵鋪與駐兵據點的要道。

穿梭在林蔭間，會遇見「柑仔店遺址」，殘留的灶爐痕跡訴說著昔日商旅往來的繁華。下行至牡丹溪旁，歷史的刻痕轉向日治。

燦光寮水壩曾是 1930 年代金瓜石礦區的供水心臟，殘存的紅磚抽水機房見證了「金都」的興衰。這段路徑測試著在疲勞下對重心的精準掌控，最終順著路徑抵達牡丹車站。

⛩️ 柑腳：百年信仰與山城驛站

隨著第一天行程進入尾聲，來到有「山谷中珍珠」美譽的雙溪柑腳。威惠廟 是鄉里們的信仰中心，奉祀開漳聖王的古廟建於 1868 年，入口石獅上仍刻有同治年的歷史痕跡。鄰近的 泰發炭窯 則保留了 20 餘座蜂巢式窯門，見證了當年礦工在艱辛環境下工作的印記。如今，這裡轉型為有機栽種的長壽村，居民樂天好客，空氣中滿是清新的生命力。

今晚落腳在 柑腳驛站。主人王澤松夫妻原在金融業服務，退休後買下這塊地，卻因位置正處淡蘭古道中路的中心點，因緣際會成為了山友們歇腳、住宿與交流資訊的重要據點。

這座驛站的微妙之處在於其地理位置，恰好為疲憊的人們添了一份安心感。現在正值柑腳的螢火蟲季。當夜色降臨，流螢點亮這片清澈水源養育的山徑。在精品咖啡香中聽著主人分享山城故事，汗水在此收乾。

美其實就在不經意之間發生， 或許是在樹梅坪回望的海景， 也或許是此刻與驛站主人的一場茶餘飯後。

📍 路線資訊：瑞芳車站 > 琉瑯路步道 > 九份 > 燦光寮古道 > 牡丹車站 > 雙溪柑腳 ⏱ 距離：約 20 公里 ⚡️ 宿：柑腳驛站 (Plein Soleil Coffee Roasters)

"Some experiences cannot be described; you must step onto the trail and feel them for yourself."

In 2023, I completed a solo thru-hike of the Tamsui-Kavalan Trails (TKT) with a heavy pack. It was my first time being 'forced' to slow down, to truly appreciate the scenery and endure every incline. I realized that on long-distance trails, you don't always need to aim for unreachable peaks; sometimes, bowing your head to connect with the land beneath your feet is the greatest reward.

Over the years, I have transitioned from a heavy-pack trekker to a trail runner, but my love for the mountains remains unchanged. Action speaks louder than words—it’s time to head out.

🏔️ The Texture of History: From Ruifang to Jiufen

For trail runners, a path is more than just a line on a map; it is a constant analysis of force between the foot and the earth. The Northern Loop of the TKT is Taiwan's most historically significant route. Once an ancient military and postal road, it has transformed into a classic hiking trail connecting profound history with modern footsteps.

Running from Ruifang Station, I passed through the silence of the Chuzitan Trail. The subsequent Liulangroad Trail follows a 1930s cableway route from the mining era. Emerging from the misty tunnels, the view suddenly opens up to the Pacific Ocean, with Keelung Islet shimmering on the horizon.

🪵 Conversations with Ancient Ruins: Shumeiping and Canguangliao

Leaving the bustling Jiufen Old Street, the rhythm changes. I ascended to Shumeiping, where a 360-degree panorama of the Northeast Coast unfolds. Entering the Canguangliao Ancient Trail, the path turns into raw earth. This was once an official postal station and military outpost during the Qing Dynasty.

Deep in the woods, you’ll encounter the "Gan-zai-dian" (Old Grocery Store) ruins, where remains of ancient stoves tell stories of weary travelers seeking warmth centuries ago. Descending toward Mudan Creek, industrial history takes over—the ruins of the Canguangliao Dam and its brick pumping stations remind us of the "Golden City’s" former glory.

⛩️ Ganjiao: The "Pearl of the Valley"

The first day ends at Ganjiao, a village known as the "Pearl of the Valley." The Weihui Temple, built in 1868, remains the spiritual heart of the community. Nearby, the Taifa Charcoal Kilns stand as silent witnesses to the grueling lives of former miners.

Tonight, I am staying at the Ganjiao Station (B&B). The owners, a retired couple, have turned this spot into a sanctuary for hikers. It sits perfectly at the midpoint of the TKT Middle Loop, offering a sense of security and a taste of local life. During April and May, fireflies light up the valley like a sea of stars. Over a cup of specialty coffee, the day’s fatigue fades away.

Beauty happens in the most unexpected moments—perhaps in the view from the ridge, or in a quiet conversation at the end of the day.

📋 Logistics & Information

• Route: Ruifang Station > Liulangroad Trail > Jiufen > Canguangliao Trail > Mudan Station > Ganjiao

• Distance: Approx. 20 km

• Difficulty: ★★★☆☆ (Moderate; suitable for hikers with good fitness)

• Transportation: Take the train to Ruifang Station (Start) and finish at Mudan Station.

• Accommodations: Ganjiao Station (Plein Soleil Coffee Roasters) — Highly recommended for its hospitality and strategic location on the TKT.

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